I am looking for a GPS unit for a family member. My findings may be of interest to others. Or someone may be able to correct any misconceptions I have, hopefully before I buy. Given that most reviews seem to favor Garmin units, my review focuses on Garmin units and further just on 2012 models to minimize obsolescence.
Interpreting the different models
In the Garmin model name, "LM" indicates lifetime map updates and appears to add $10-$20 to MSRP (or more for the “essential series”). "T" (or "LT") indicates lifetime traffic support. The cost of traffic update alone is difficult to determine, because models adding this also add voice activated navigation, Bluetooth, and smart phone link.
As opposed to the 2xxx models, 3xxx models provide:
* Pinch-to-zoom;
* 3-D landmarks & terrain view;
* Lane assist adds "Bird’s Eye" to photoReal junction view;
* Powered mount for fast docking;
* Thinner profile; and,
* Lifetime traffic (if included) is HD Digital (may require HD Digital Traffic receiver for advanced capability).
x4xx (and older x7xx) models provide a 4.3" screen. x5xx models provide a 5" screen.
xx9x models add:
* Voice-activated navigation;
* Bluetooth (perhaps really only effective with Android?); and,
* Android (not iPhone) app.
The "essential" series (30, 40, 40LM, 50, and 50LM) does not provide traffic services, dual-orientation display (auto portrait/landscape), or enhanced exit services (what services are available at next exit). The series appears to provide lane assist but without photoReal. Map support may be more limited.
My recommendation
My primary preference is for the larger screen (5” screen) due to safety concerns viewing a small screen while driving. I would probably prefer the 3xxxx model over the 2xxx models and “essential” series assuming that the 3xxx models are Garmin’s future focus. The powered mount, terrain view and pinch to zoom also seem to add value. Finally, I am not sure that traffic support (except for frequent heavy traffic drivers) or xx9x models (except for Android users) really add much value. The primary options seem to be: the 3550LM, $350 MSRP; the 2555LMT, $200 MSRP (Best Buy and Walmart offer refurbished for $150); and the 50LM, $180 MSRP (but Buy.com lists at $121). I also recommend purchasing a mount (~$25) so that the device can be safely viewed while driving.
Amazon lists the 3550LM at $350 (same as MSRP) and the 2555LMT at $200 (new, same as MSRP) and $152 (refurbished). Walmart lists the 3550LM at $350 and the 2555LMT at $150 (refurbished). Buy.com lists a 3550LM for $350, a 2555LMT for $170 (refurbished), and a 50LM for $121 ($59 less than MSRP). Best Buy lists the 3550LM at $370 (more than MSRP!) and the 2555LMT at $150 (refurbished) and $200 (new). Target lists the 50LM at $153. Garmin's Powered Suction Cup Mount with Speaker (for the 3550LM) costs $25 at Garmin’s website. Mounts for the 2555LMT and 50LM are similarly priced.
To download maps, one installs Garmin Map Updater on a computer. With LM, 4 updates/year are free, although certain maps may still cost. Users must download at least every 24 months or lose free updates. Transfer updates to from computer to device via USB.
Traffic apparently is updated in real-time via a radio protocol called RDS-TMC.
MSRP (manufacturer's suggested retail price) from Garmin's online store for 2012 models.
* nüvi 3450: $300
* nüvi 3450LM: $320
* nüvi 3490LMT: $350
* nüvi 3550LM: $350
* nüvi 3590LMT: $380
* nüvi 2455LT: $170
* nüvi 2455LMT: $180
* nüvi 2475LT: $210 (less features than 2495LMT, but higher price)
* nüvi 2495LMT: $200
* nüvi 2555LT: $190
* nüvi 2555LMT: $200
* nüvi 2595LMT: $230
* nüvi 30: $110 (only a 3.5" screen)
* nüvi 40: $120
* nüvi 40LM: $160
* nüvi 50: $140 (5" screen)
* nüvi 50LM: $180
Good articles on buying GPS devices
C|net, "GPS buying guide", 27 Aug 2012
Consumer Reports, "GPS buying guide", Aug 2012
PCMag, "How to Buy a GPS", 30 May 2012
PCWorld, "Today's Best GPS Devices", 25 Jan 2011
PC Magazines “The 10 Best GPS Devices”, 29 May 2012
* Garmin nüvi 2350LMT ($200) Editor's Choice
* Garmin nüvi 3590LMT ($380) Editor's Choice
* Garmin nüvi 3790T ($240-350) Editor's Choice
* Magellan RoadMate 5045-LM ($110-150)
* TomTom GO 2405 TM ($175)
* TomTom GO 2535 M LIVE ($200-250)
* Magellan RoadMate 1700 ($130)
* Magellan RoadMate 9055 ($200)
* TomTom GO LIVE 1535M ($200-210)
* TomTom VIA 1535TM ($175)
C|net “Best 5 GPS navigation systems”, 28 Aug 2012
* Garmin Nuvi 3490LMT GPS receiver ($326-400)
* TomTom GO Live 1535M ($200-250)
* Garmin Nuvi 50 ($115-154)
* Magellan RoadMate 5175T-LM ($211-225)
* TomTom Via 1535 ($220)
TopTenReviews “2012 Best GPS Navigation System Comparisons and Reviews”, NO DATE!
* Garmin Nuvi 3790LMT (rating: 9.6, $370)
* Garmin Nuvi 3760LMT (rating: 9.4, $300)
* Garmin Nuvi 2460LMT (rating: 8.8, $235)
* TomTom GO 2535 TMWTE (rating: 8.43, $304)
* Magellan Roadmate 3055-MU (rating: 7.1, $120)
* TomTom XXL 540 S (rating: 7, $95)
* Garmin Nuvi 550 (rating: 6.68, $262)
* Magellan Maestro 4350 (rating: 6.5, $150)
* TomTom XL 340 S (rating: 6.33, )
* Magellan Roadmate 1700 (rating: 6.28)
Sites regarding traffic updates
http://www.laptopmag.com/advice/expert/how-gps-real-time-traffic-works.aspx http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traffic_message_channel http://www8.garmin.com/traffic/ http://gps.toptenreviews.com/navigation/should-you-spring-for-gps-traffic-updates-.htm
Friday, September 7, 2012
Wednesday, May 16, 2012
Local Nurseries with Texas Superstar plants
According to the Texas Department of Commerce, the following retailers offer Texas Superstar® plants
Katy
- Houston Plants #2 20415 Katy Freeway Katy, Tx 77450 (281) 579-9588
- Westheimer Gardens 25835 Westheimer Parkway Katy, Tx 77494 (281) 693-119
Brookshire
- Brookwood Gift & Garden Center 1749 FM 1489 Brookshire, TX 77423 (281) 375-2149 Greenhouse (281) 375-2327
Richmond
- Enchanted Forest 10611 FM 2759 Richmond, Tx 77469 (281) 937-9449
- Enchanted Gardens 6420 FM 359 Richmond, TX 77406 281-341-1206
Houston
- Brookwood Store 10222C Westheimer Houston, TX 77042 (713) 782-7757
- Buchanan's Native Plants 611 E. 11th St. Houston, TX 77008 (713) 861-5702
- Cornelius Nurseries Inc.
- 2233 S. Voss Road Houston, TX 77057 (713) 782-8640
- 1755 FM 1960 W. Houston, TX 77090 (281) 444-1210
- 1200 N. Dairy Ashford Road Houston, TX 77079 (281) 493-0550
- Houston Plants 16726 North Freeway Houston, Tx 77073 (281) 443-0962
- JRN Nursery 4809 Breen Drive Houston, Tx 77086 (281) 448-6107
- Plants for all Seasons 21328 Highway 249 Houston, Tx 77070 (281) 376-1646
- RCW Nurseries Inc. 15809 State Hwy. 249 (Tomball Pkwy.) Houston, TX 77086 (281) 440-5161
A nursery that is not listed, but at which I always find success is
- Ashley Gardens Nursery 21915 Kingsland Blvd Katy, TX 77450 (281) 392-1025
Saturday, April 23, 2011
Stair Lights
All the stairs are carpeted, except the very bottom stair. This can create the illusion that the last step is actually part of the floor. I have several others have had close calls at this point. We have installed temporary lights that can be switched on. I have noticed a very attractive "LED Night Light with Motion Sensor" for only $15. However, I am trying to avoid using batteries and would like to install a permanent solution.
While I am doing the work, I hope to install similar lights at two small landings midway up the stairs and at the top so that any transition is marked. I believe that under the stairs is unused but closed-off space. I want to go exploring, but my better half knows that excavation could remain open for some time and has been reticent to let me go. Assuming I can look inside the walls, I think I can run wiring to the stair lights thru this space. Also, I have seen some nice designs in which lights turn on and off when a person is close, but I really just want a simple photo-cell. I think I would prefer a photo-cell integrated with the light, but might consider a photo-cell that controls all four.
I plan to use LED lights for longevity, lower power, and lower heat generated.
While I am doing the work, I hope to install similar lights at two small landings midway up the stairs and at the top so that any transition is marked. I believe that under the stairs is unused but closed-off space. I want to go exploring, but my better half knows that excavation could remain open for some time and has been reticent to let me go. Assuming I can look inside the walls, I think I can run wiring to the stair lights thru this space. Also, I have seen some nice designs in which lights turn on and off when a person is close, but I really just want a simple photo-cell. I think I would prefer a photo-cell integrated with the light, but might consider a photo-cell that controls all four.
I plan to use LED lights for longevity, lower power, and lower heat generated.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Cleat Resolution
Well I happened to find a very nice metal cleat solution in . . . Hobby Lobby. Just go to the picture hanging area. Hobby Lobby has a variety of cleats, handling up to 200 pounds (I think). More than enough for our 40-ish pound mirror.
Back to working with son on his loft . . . when he isn't playing computer games. Also, have a doozy in son's bathroom. He hung his bath towel so that it lay against the wall -- for a long time. What he thought was "dirt" might be mold instead. We have let the room dry, unused for months but the stain remains. Not sure what to do. Thinking about removing the stained drywall and installing a recessed cabinet. Haven't really found anything I like or that would look ok in the spot. More for another post.
Back to working with son on his loft . . . when he isn't playing computer games. Also, have a doozy in son's bathroom. He hung his bath towel so that it lay against the wall -- for a long time. What he thought was "dirt" might be mold instead. We have let the room dry, unused for months but the stain remains. Not sure what to do. Thinking about removing the stained drywall and installing a recessed cabinet. Haven't really found anything I like or that would look ok in the spot. More for another post.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Hanging a Mirror
Now we see but a poor reflection as in a mirror; then we shall see face to face. Now I know in part; then I shall know fully, even as I am fully known. 1 Corinthians 13:12 (NIV)
My beautiful bride purchased a mirror at Kirkland's and asked me to hang it in the entry way. The label states SKU 16-084713 "Mirror 30x60 Tortois". The mirror is not small, measuring 37" x 67", and weighs 39 pounds.
We have a high, presently empty entry way. Across from the stair landing, is a large bare wall with only a console table to break the expanse. Although the table is not small, it looks rather pathetic under the space. My bride wants the mirror installed on this wall, with the bottom located one foot above the table (or about 3.5' above the floor).
A label on the mirror's back states:
Hmmm, how to attach a 39 pound mirror to a wall? What are the odds that studs will will be found 35" (hanger-to-hanger width) and centered on the wall? Small and I do not hit the jackpot. The wall is 102.5" wide. One stud is almost centered, probably to enable an electric outlet to be centered on the wall. A second stud is 12" to the right of the center stud and a third is about 22" to the left. Most studs are roughly 16" on center give or take an inch. Of course, I could be incompetent with my old stud finder. The distance is close to that between the right and left studs, but trying to use those studs would result in an off-center mirror. Despite my most winsome looks, my bride decides that an off-center mirror is not ok.
If the mirror is to be elegantly centered, I cannot follow the label's exhortation and "drive the proper size picture hooks securely into the wall". If driven directly into the wall at each hanger, the picture hooks would be driven into drywall only and that does not seem secure. I am aware of drywall anchors and molly bolts and head off into the DIY Internet.
The following information is based purely on reviewing internet material. I have no idea whether or to what extent any of this works. I would greatly appreciate comments from anyone who has experience with any of the below referenced products or approaches.
Most commenters encourage would-be mirror-hangers to use studs for at least two support points if at all possible. (Although a significant minority seem to believe that molly or expansion bolts in drywall would be sufficient.) Not wanting a shattered mirror and, even more importantly, damaged drywall in the foyer, I opt for the conservative approach and decide that I need to use the center and right studs if at all possible.
Several options are found. One writer suggests contacting a local ironmonger to obtain a metal plate that can distribute weight across the studs. Unfortunately, ironmongers are not common in Katy. Another option is to install a wooden bar, fastened with 3" wood screws at the center and right studs and perhaps using a molly bolt equidistant (12") to the left. I assume I would install heavy duty picture hooks at each end. The bar would be about 1/2" to 3/4" thick, 3" wide and 36" long. I do not yet know what hooks might work for mirrors or how they would be installed. One downside of this option is that the bar's thickness and the hook would cause the mirror top to lean forward considerably. Perhaps the hook could be installed on the top of the bar, rather than the front, but that would likely be weaker.
The best option appears to be through the use of a "French cleat". I have never heard of this before, but the concept is relative simple. Take a board, say a 1x6 plank, and rip down the middle with the saw blade tilted 45°. Half the board is installed horizontally on the wall with the cut on the top, angling from the front down to the wall. The other half is installed horizontally on the mirror with the cut on the bottom, with the angle such that the mirror-bound board fits with the wall-bound board as though whole. Instead of making a French cleat from wood, several metal options are also available and are referred to also as z-clips or z-hangers.
I am not sure of the material comprising the mirror frame. However, if it holds the hangers (D-rings), the material should holds a cleat. In order to make the mirror parallel with the wall and to provide additional support, cleats at the bottom and top seem best. Below are sites that may be of use. I have not yet begun to investigate what hardware stores in Katy might be best. If you have any experience hanging heavy mirrors on walls, please let me know your thoughts!
Information on French cleats:
Wouldn’t You Like to Hang a Heavy Mirror Like a Carpenter? (by Virginia Sole-Smith)
Instructions for creating a "French Cleat" to hang a mirror
Building a French Cleat (by Tom Hintz)
How to install a French cleat (video)
Different metal cleats
Rockler Steel Cleats
Aluminum Hanging Cleat
Aluminum Z-Clips
Carina Z Hanger
Hangman Products Z Hanger
Information on different drywall fasteners
Wall fixings for hollow surfaces
You Can Hang ALMOST Anything With Wall Anchors
Hangers, Screws & Anchors (Lowe's)
Choosing the Proper Fastener
How to hang stuff up
Plastic anchors
E-Z Products Self-Drilling Drywall Anchors
TOGGLER® Anchor System
Powers Fasteners
Good mirror-hanging sites that do not reference cleats
Hang a Heavy Mirror on Drywall
How to Hang a Large Heavy Mirror by Joyann Bradley
How to Hang Heavy Items on Walls
Hang Tight by Jay Somerset
Question: "Can you hang a 45 pound mirror on dry wall with no studs backing it?"
How to Use Anchor Screws
How to Hang Heavy Objects Using Toggle Bolts (video)
How to Hang a Cabinet (not very useful, but quite humorous)
Other products
Retro-Stud
Wall-nut
Hangman System
PowerHook
Attach-It Picture Hanging System
Magic Hook
My beautiful bride purchased a mirror at Kirkland's and asked me to hang it in the entry way. The label states SKU 16-084713 "Mirror 30x60 Tortois". The mirror is not small, measuring 37" x 67", and weighs 39 pounds.
We have a high, presently empty entry way. Across from the stair landing, is a large bare wall with only a console table to break the expanse. Although the table is not small, it looks rather pathetic under the space. My bride wants the mirror installed on this wall, with the bottom located one foot above the table (or about 3.5' above the floor).
A label on the mirror's back states:
TO PROPERLY HANG YOUR BEAUTIFUL NEW MIRROR/PICTURE
This item comes to you with special hangers securely fastened to the back. DO NOT USE PICTURE WIRE to hang this mirror/picture. Instead, drive the proper size picture hooks securely into the wall, spaced so that the hanger will hang from those hooks. This will give even distribution of weight and a safe installation. Picture wire does not evenly distribute the weight of the mirror/picture and causes strain on both wire and hangers.
Correct distribution of weight using two hooks insures safe installation.
Hmmm, how to attach a 39 pound mirror to a wall? What are the odds that studs will will be found 35" (hanger-to-hanger width) and centered on the wall? Small and I do not hit the jackpot. The wall is 102.5" wide. One stud is almost centered, probably to enable an electric outlet to be centered on the wall. A second stud is 12" to the right of the center stud and a third is about 22" to the left. Most studs are roughly 16" on center give or take an inch. Of course, I could be incompetent with my old stud finder. The distance is close to that between the right and left studs, but trying to use those studs would result in an off-center mirror. Despite my most winsome looks, my bride decides that an off-center mirror is not ok.
If the mirror is to be elegantly centered, I cannot follow the label's exhortation and "drive the proper size picture hooks securely into the wall". If driven directly into the wall at each hanger, the picture hooks would be driven into drywall only and that does not seem secure. I am aware of drywall anchors and molly bolts and head off into the DIY Internet.
The following information is based purely on reviewing internet material. I have no idea whether or to what extent any of this works. I would greatly appreciate comments from anyone who has experience with any of the below referenced products or approaches.
Most commenters encourage would-be mirror-hangers to use studs for at least two support points if at all possible. (Although a significant minority seem to believe that molly or expansion bolts in drywall would be sufficient.) Not wanting a shattered mirror and, even more importantly, damaged drywall in the foyer, I opt for the conservative approach and decide that I need to use the center and right studs if at all possible.
Several options are found. One writer suggests contacting a local ironmonger to obtain a metal plate that can distribute weight across the studs. Unfortunately, ironmongers are not common in Katy. Another option is to install a wooden bar, fastened with 3" wood screws at the center and right studs and perhaps using a molly bolt equidistant (12") to the left. I assume I would install heavy duty picture hooks at each end. The bar would be about 1/2" to 3/4" thick, 3" wide and 36" long. I do not yet know what hooks might work for mirrors or how they would be installed. One downside of this option is that the bar's thickness and the hook would cause the mirror top to lean forward considerably. Perhaps the hook could be installed on the top of the bar, rather than the front, but that would likely be weaker.
The best option appears to be through the use of a "French cleat". I have never heard of this before, but the concept is relative simple. Take a board, say a 1x6 plank, and rip down the middle with the saw blade tilted 45°. Half the board is installed horizontally on the wall with the cut on the top, angling from the front down to the wall. The other half is installed horizontally on the mirror with the cut on the bottom, with the angle such that the mirror-bound board fits with the wall-bound board as though whole. Instead of making a French cleat from wood, several metal options are also available and are referred to also as z-clips or z-hangers.
I am not sure of the material comprising the mirror frame. However, if it holds the hangers (D-rings), the material should holds a cleat. In order to make the mirror parallel with the wall and to provide additional support, cleats at the bottom and top seem best. Below are sites that may be of use. I have not yet begun to investigate what hardware stores in Katy might be best. If you have any experience hanging heavy mirrors on walls, please let me know your thoughts!
Information on French cleats:
Wouldn’t You Like to Hang a Heavy Mirror Like a Carpenter? (by Virginia Sole-Smith)
Instructions for creating a "French Cleat" to hang a mirror
Building a French Cleat (by Tom Hintz)
How to install a French cleat (video)
Different metal cleats
Rockler Steel Cleats
Aluminum Hanging Cleat
Aluminum Z-Clips
Carina Z Hanger
Hangman Products Z Hanger
Information on different drywall fasteners
Wall fixings for hollow surfaces
You Can Hang ALMOST Anything With Wall Anchors
Hangers, Screws & Anchors (Lowe's)
Choosing the Proper Fastener
How to hang stuff up
Plastic anchors
E-Z Products Self-Drilling Drywall Anchors
TOGGLER® Anchor System
Powers Fasteners
Good mirror-hanging sites that do not reference cleats
Hang a Heavy Mirror on Drywall
How to Hang a Large Heavy Mirror by Joyann Bradley
How to Hang Heavy Items on Walls
Hang Tight by Jay Somerset
Question: "Can you hang a 45 pound mirror on dry wall with no studs backing it?"
How to Use Anchor Screws
How to Hang Heavy Objects Using Toggle Bolts (video)
How to Hang a Cabinet (not very useful, but quite humorous)
Other products
Retro-Stud
Wall-nut
Hangman System
PowerHook
Attach-It Picture Hanging System
Magic Hook
Monday, February 23, 2009
Hello and Thank you
"Do not let any unwholesome talk come out of your mouths, but only what is helpful for building others up according to their needs, that it may benefit those who listen." Ephesians 4:29 (NIV)
This is my first time blogging. I basically plan to write about living in Katy, TX and discuss, share, and learn about living here. In particular, I enjoy working around the house, but sometimes finding resources and materials can be a challenge. I hope to share what I find and perhaps obtain useful information from others.
I greatly appreciate blogger.com and google for providing this tool and appreciate anyone who takes the time to participate in this blog. Hopefully subsequent blogs will provide some useful information and discussion.
This is my first time blogging. I basically plan to write about living in Katy, TX and discuss, share, and learn about living here. In particular, I enjoy working around the house, but sometimes finding resources and materials can be a challenge. I hope to share what I find and perhaps obtain useful information from others.
I greatly appreciate blogger.com and google for providing this tool and appreciate anyone who takes the time to participate in this blog. Hopefully subsequent blogs will provide some useful information and discussion.
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